বাংলাদেশের মসলিন: ফিরে পেতে যাচ্ছে হারানো ঐতিহ্য Maslin of Bangladesh

Maslin (also spelled Muslin) cloth has a rich and complex history in Bangladesh, where it was once a symbol of the region's prosperity and a highly sought-after luxury textile.

What is Maslin cloth?

Maslin is a plain-weave cotton fabric known for its incredibly fine, delicate, and lightweight texture. Its quality was so exceptional that it was sometimes described as "woven air" or "the vapor of dawn." The finest varieties were said to be so sheer that an entire sari could be passed through a finger ring.

The unique quality of Dhaka maslin came from a specific type of cotton plant called "Phuti karpas" (scientifically known as Gossypium arboreum var. neglecta), which grew along the banks of the Meghna and Shitalakshya rivers in Bangladesh. The yarn for maslin was painstakingly hand-spun, often by young women, in intensely humid conditions to prevent the delicate threads from snapping. The weaving process also required immense skill and a special type of loom.

History and Decline

Maslin from Bengal (the historic region that includes modern-day Bangladesh) was a significant trade commodity for centuries, with its origins dating back to ancient times. During the Mughal era, Dhaka became a global center for maslin production and trade, and the fabric was a favorite among royalty and aristocrats.

The decline of this glorious industry began with British colonial rule. The British East India Company, and later the British government, implemented policies that systematically dismantled the local textile industry. They imposed heavy taxes on Bengali maslin while promoting their own machine-made textiles. Historical accounts, though some are apocryphal, even describe the brutal practice of cutting off the thumbs of maslin weavers to stop them from producing the fabric. The "Phuti karpas" cotton plant itself eventually became extinct, and the art of spinning and weaving the finest maslin was lost to history.

The Revival Effort

In recent years, there has been a concerted effort in Bangladesh to revive this lost heritage. At the behest of Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina, a national project was launched to bring back "Dhakai maslin."

This revival project has involved several key steps:

 * Rediscovery of "Phuti karpas": Researchers embarked on a painstaking quest to find and identify the original cotton plant. Through a combination of historical research, DNA analysis of antique maslin samples, and fieldwork, they successfully located and cultivated the "Phuti karpas" plant.

 * Relearning the Techniques: The project has focused on training a new generation of artisans in the ancient techniques of spinning the delicate yarn and weaving the maslin fabric on handlooms.

 * Geographical Indication (GI) Certification: In 2021, "Dhakai maslin" was granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, officially recognizing it as a product of Bangladesh.

 * Commercialization and Future Plans: The initial phase of the project has successfully produced a limited number of maslin saris and other cloths for research and exhibition. The government and private sector are now working on a second phase to scale up production, improve the quality of the cotton, and eventually introduce maslin to the commercial market, both nationally and globally.

The revival of maslin is seen as a way to reclaim a part of Bangladesh's cultural identity and create new economic opportunities for local artisans.

YouTube video - বাংলাদেশের মসলিন: ফিরে পেতে যাচ্ছে হারানো ঐতিহ্য Maslin of Bangladesh