Vertical Strawberry Walls: Maximizing yield by growing strawberries

The vertical strawberry production system, sometimes known as a "strawberry wall" or "strawberry tower," is an extremely efficient way to increase yield, especially in limited areas. With a minimum of ground area, this do-it-yourself project creates a thriving, multi-tiered harvesting area. The secret to its success is to maximize light exposure, ventilation, and drainage for a large number of plants arranged vertically.

Video on Vertical Strawberry Walls: Maximizing yield by growing strawberries

Video on Vertical Strawberry Walls: Maximizing yield by growing strawberries

Although there are many well-liked designs for a vertical strawberry wall, the majority of do-it-yourself methods make use of recycled materials such rain barrels and big PVC pipes. gutters, or wire mesh covered in cloth. The fundamental idea is still the same: establish many planting pockets along a vertical structure, make sure the inside watering is done correctly, and use a good growth medium to fill them.

This is a thorough, step-by-step guide to creating a DIY Vertical Strawberry Tower using a large PVC downpipe or other similar cylindrical structure, which is fantastic. for water efficiency and high-density planting.

Get your supplies and equipment ready first.

List of Materials:

The main tower requires a lengthy section of PVC or downpipe with a large diameter (for example, 4–6 inches in diameter and up to 6 feet long).

 The internal watering tube should have a smaller diameter pipe (e.g., 1/2 to 1 inch).

A cap or cork to block the base of the watering tube.

 Wrap the watering tube with geotextile fabric, burlap, or other similar porous material.

* Use wire or twine to keep the material in place.

 A high-quality, lightweight potting mixture (avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts easily). A combination of peat moss, coconut coir, perlite, or vermiculite is perfect for drainage.

 Strawberry plants (bare-root or little transplants). Day-neutral types such 'Albion' or 'Seascape' are frequently advised for consistent container fruiting.

 Adhesive tape.

List of necessary tools:

 Drill.

 Drill bit for hole saws (usually 2–3 inches, slightly larger than the strawberry plant crown).

 A little drill bit (such 1/8 inch) for the irrigation tube.

 If necessary, a pipe-cutting saw.

Box cutter or knife.

 Marker and measuring tape.

Step 2: Get the Watering Tube Ready

The watering tube is essential for making sure that every tier of the vertical garden gets enough water.

Cut the Tube: Cut the narrower tube so that it extends about 3–4 inches beyond the main tower pipe. It will be simple to fill from the top because of this extra length.

Make vent holes: Drill a lot of tiny vent holes into the upper two-thirds of the watering tube using the little drill bit. Most importantly, refrain from making holes in the lowest third. Water will naturally flow downward, and fewer holes at the bottom will keep the lower plants from making sure the higher plants receive enough water before it drains away, even if it becomes waterlogged.

 Seal the Base: Securely fit a cork or cap into the bottom end of the watering tube and wrap it with a layer of waterproof duct tape. This stops the soil from entering the pipe and escaping from the bottom.

 Fabric Wrap: Cut the geotextile or burlap fabric to wrap around the portion of the pipe that has holes. Use twine or wire to firmly hold the fabric in place. This functions as a filter, keeping soil mix and tiny roots from blocking the watering holes. The finished watering tube may now be placed in the middle of the main tower.

Step 3: Get the Main Tower Pipe Ready

This stage establishes the planting pockets that will allow your strawberries to flourish.

 Mark the Planting Holes: Determine which side of the tower will face the wall (if applicable) and leave that area empty. Identify the locations for planting holes on the exposed surfaces. To maximize space and make sure that each plant has enough room and light, arrange the holes in rows that are staggered vertically and horizontally. Between the centers of the holes, a vertical gap of around 10–12 inches is a decent place to begin.

 Drill the Holes: Cut out the planting holes using the hole saw drill bit. The hole should be just big enough to softly put the roots of your strawberry plant in without harming the crown.

Add a Base (Optional): If your tower is not being buried, you might want to add a flat base or end. to keep the soil in place and add stability, cap the bottom of the main pipe. To prevent water buildup, drill a couple of drainage holes at the very bottom of this base.

Step 4: Planting and Assembly

Attention is needed during the planting step to make sure the roots are in the correct position and the crown is visible.

Place the Watering Tube: Position the wrapped watering tube in the center of the main tower pipe, making sure it sits on the base.

 Add Initial Soil: Place 12 to 18 inches of your lightweight potting mix into the bottom of the tower. Do not overly compress the soil since this restricts drainage and root development; instead, gently settle the soil.

Plant the First Row: Gently push the roots of a strawberry plant through a planting hole from the outside until they are inside the pipe and nestled in the soil. The crown (the base of the leaves where the roots meet the stem) should be kept level with the pipe wall's surface and visible. Outside of the pipe should be the plant's leaves and top. Do this for every hole in this layer.

Fill and Continue: Water the soil from the top of the central watering tube to help the soil settle around the roots. After that, add the next layer of potting mix (up to the next row of holes) to the tower. For the following row, repeat the planting procedure.

Finish the Tower: Keep filling, planting, and watering until you get to the top. For a last flourish, plant a few more strawberry crowns straight into the tower's open top.

Step 5: Optimize Location and Maintenance for Maximum Production

A good yield is dependent upon choosing the correct site and maintaining consistent care.

 Location, Location, Location: Strawberries need direct sunlight, ideally 6–8 hours a day. Place your vertical wall in the sunniest location possible, making sure the planted side gets as much sunlight as possible. The optimum location is one that receives morning sunlight since it aids in drying the leaves and warding off fungal illnesses.

Watering Technique: Vertical systems dry out more quickly than subterranean beds. Water that passes through the center tube, evenly distributing moisture across all levels. Water thoroughly until you notice a tiny runoff from the bottom drainage holes, then let the soil dry out a little in between waterings. For maximum ease and consistency, think about installing a straightforward drip irrigation system linked to the center tube.

Nutrition: Regular feeding is necessary since strawberries are heavy feeders and the nutrients in the small amount of potting mix will be used up fast. Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2–4 weeks, according to the manufacturer's directions.

Pruning for Production: Regularly remove runners—the long stems that develop new, tiny plants—to increase fruit output. Although new plants may be produced by runners, this shifts energy away from fruit development, which reduces your total output.

Pest and Disease Control: The vertical layout facilitates airflow, which aids in preventing fungal diseases like gray mold. Check your plants often. Handpick any pests, and get rid of any old, yellowing, or sick leaves right away.

These measures allow you to maximize vertical space and significantly raise the quantity of plants you can produce by establishing an ideal environment for your strawberries. resulting in a maximized, abundant yield of delectable, clean berries.